The Red-Faced Guan Yu

(This article was published in the Shenzhen Daily on July 6, 2015.)

Guan Yu (center) and his sworn friends at Guan Di Temple, Shenzhen

Even if you've never visited a temple, you may have encountered a red-faced military figure with a long, side-swept black beard. He's commonly seen in shops and restaurants, as well as in different kinds of temples--Buddhist, Taoist, and folk.

The General Weituo

(This article was published in the Shenzhen Daily on Monday, July 27, 2015.)

Weituo stands behind Mi-le Fo at Huayan Temple, Zhiti Shan

In the first hall of most temples (the "Heavenly Kings' Hall"), we are greeted by the fat, jolly figure of Mi'le Fo, the so-called "Laughing Buddha." Standing behind him there is usually an often fierce-looking warrior in armor. He is most often armed with a three-bladed sword, and he faces toward the Buddha in the main hall, away from the temple's entrance.

Heng and Ha in the Mountain Gate

(This article was published in the Shenzhen Daily on March 28, 2016.)

Heng and Ha in the Mountain Gate of Hongfa Temple, Shenzhen

Today let's begin a walk through a typical Buddhist temple, from the front to the rear.

The Four Heavenly Kings

(This article was published in the Shenzhen Daily on April 11, 2016.)

Guang Mu and Duo Wen at Langya Temple in Chuzhou, Anhui

Now we turn to the four fearsome figures for whom the first hall is named, the Four Heavenly Kings, usually glaring down two to a side as they tower over the visitor. Like the Generals Heng and Ha, they are guardians of the temple.

Around the Main Hall

(This article was published in the Shenzhen Daily on May 10, 2016.)

Kneelers and instruments in front of main altar, Hong Fa Temple, Shenzhen

In addition to the main altar, there are plenty of other things to see inside the main hall.

The Qielan Hall

(This article was published in the Shenzhen Daily on July 4, 2016.)

Guanyu/Qielan in three forms, Nangshan Cishou Temple, Putian, Fujian

We have talked before of the popular Daoist figure Guanyu, who has his own temples (one is located in Shenzhen's Xin'an Old City). We mentioned there that Buddhists know him as "Qielan." Here's his story.

The Far-Seeing Heavenly King

(This article was published in the Shenzhen Daily on March 13, 2017.)

The red-faced Guang Mu with his serpent at
Longxing Temple, Zhengding, Shijiazhuang, Hebei

You may have heard it said that "There are no gods in Buddhism." That is not strictly true. There are gods, though they are not objects of worship, as in theistic religions.

The Closely-Listening Heavenly King

(This article was published in the Shenzhen Daily on March 20, 2017.)

The very-dark-green (nearly black) faced Duo Wen with his
umbrella at Longxing Temple, Zhengding, Shijiazhuang, Hebei

The next of our "Four Heavenly Kings" is called Vaishravana, whose story originates with the lesser-known Hindu god named Kubera.

The Country-Supporting Heavenly King

(This article was published in the Shenzhen Daily on March 27, 2017 .)

The white (or tan)-faced Chi Guo with his lute at
Longxing Temple, Zhengding, Shijiazhuang, Hebei

Here is the third of our Four Heavenly Kings. Called Dhritarashtra in Sanskrit, he is based on the great Hindu god Indra.

The Growth-Enhancing Heavenly King

(This article was published in the Shenzhen Daily on April 3, 2017.)

A red-faced Zeng Shang with his sword at
Longxing Temple, Zhengding, Shijiazhuang, Hebei

Today we come to the fourth and last of the "Heavenly Kings." His Sanskrit name is Virudhaka, but he is known in Chinese as Zeng Zhang, literally "increasing length," but widely interpreted to mean that he "enhances virtue." So in folk tradition, he is Mo-Li Heng, the last character meaning "a lot" or "vast."

The Brahma Palace at Wuxi

(This article was published in the Shenzhen Daily on August 14, 2017.)

The dome of the Brahma Palace in Wuxi

Few people can say they have been to Heaven--but I have!

The Mahakala "Black Cloak"

(This article was published in the Shenzhen Daily on Sep 4, 2017.)

The Mahakala called "Black Cloak" on a mural
inside the Lamasery at Splendid China, Shenzhen

It has been over 14 years since I first set foot in Chin. Since then I have traveled to nearly 100 cities. But I have never been to the Tibet Autonomous Region of China. My first taste of it was at Splendid China and the Folk Cultural Villages in Shenzhen, where I was able to see a miniaturized Potala Palace, and enter--for the first time--a full-sized lamasery. (I have since been to several more, notably Beijing's Yonghe Gong and the Guangren Temple in Xi'an).